FAQs / Q&A

Q. What is the difference between the Wicked Laser's Spyder III Arctic and The Awesome Lasers Cobalt 1000 ?
A. The most obvious difference is the size. The Cobalt 1000 is less than 1/2 the size of the gargantuan Arctic. The next point of difference is the weight; the Cobalt 1000 is less than half the weight of the Arctic. When you turn them on, the actual power output of the Cobalt 1000 is, on average, 33 to 35% more than the Arctic. The beam temperature; that is, the heat imparted to the target or "burning power", is on average, 33 to 35% hotter than the Arctic. This has been confirmed by independent tests using thermocouples and calibrated Laser Power Meters.
To see a breakdown of all the feature comparisons click here.

A. Yes. The LASERS are legal to own, however, using them to endanger aircraft or moving vehicles is a crime (see NEWS reports of such abuse). On Feb 2, 2011, a bill was introduced making pointing a LASER at an aircraft a FEDERAL OFFENSE. Under the USA Patriot Act, it is conceivable that incidents involving aircraft could be prosecuted as TERRORISM, and you could end up being held incommunicado and water-boarded at Gitmo. US Commercial aircraft employ sensors that warn of LASER radiation, and the GPS coordinates of the originating beam are instantly calculated and reported to to FAA and NORAD. Shining a LASER at an aircraft – even the puny 5mw red LASER that you bought at Staples five years ago – is SERIOUS business, and is treated as a "targeting lock-on", just as if you had aimed a Stinger missile. If you point a LASER at a cop, you should expect to die momentarily in a hail of gunfire. This is an example of one case where the theory of evolution works every time – idiots don't survive to pass on their genes.

A. Yes. Kits are sold as "parts". What you do with those parts is essentially up to you. LASER KITS, are exempt from any regulations, but do NOT comply with Federal Regulations (US FDA), and may not be "safe" once they are assembled. If you have any doubts at all about building a LASER from a kit, consider the Cobalt Series LASERS which are fully assembled, tested, and certified. We are concerned for the safety of our customers, and do all we can to ensure that our LASERS are ONLY sold to responsible adults who have the common sense required to use them in a responsible manner. It is however ILLEGAL to use a LASER in an irresponsible manner (see above Q&A).

A. The person who owns or is using the LASER is ultimately responsible. When you buy a high-power LASER kit from us, you must send us a Liability Waiver. If GM sells you a car and you drive it 120 MPH into a tree, GM (the seller) cannot be held responsible. Vehicles moving at any appreciable rate of speed are essentially missiles, and are inherently dangerous in irresponsible hands. LASERS over 100mw are similarly dangerous in the hands of a child or a fool. You must agree to our Terms of Sale and send us a Liability Disclaimer in order to purchase any LASER kit on this Web site. Once you order a kit, we will automatically email you the necessary forms.

A. NO. It seems Wicked was blowin' smoke all this time (since 2006) about being "FDA Certified". [ see: FDA Violation Letters (PDF) and import ban ]. If you ordered a LASER from Wicked recently, you're S.O.L., sorry! However, if you never received your Arctic, we have a great deal for you!

A. Yes, it is entirely legal. While chances of getting ARRESTED for owning a LASER are LESS THAN ZERO, it is a Federal crime to use them to point at moving vehicles, aircraft, or people. If you point one at a cop, don't be surprised if bullets come back at ya'! The Cobalt 2000LASER is the most powerful hand-held LASER available. NOBODY has our exclusive driver circuitry (and we don't sell it to anyone) which makes the Cobalt 2000 capable of OVER TWICE the power of a Spyder III Arctic.

A. Yes, as long as they are sitting in pieces. A 2,000 milliwatt Class IV LASER is certainly NOT a toy by any stretch of the imagination. Carelessly handled, they will blind you before you can blink, and can set stuff on fire from considerable distances (depending upon how the unit is focused). ANY LASER over 50 milliwatts should be treated as you would treat a loaded firearm.

A. We used to be an affiliate and promoted their products for a while, but not any more – as of December 20, 2010 we severed our relationship with Wicked Lasers – see why

A. It sure seems like it, doesn't it? YES - It might as well be, but I don't believe it is "vaporware"; I believe that WickedLASERS did not fully anticipate that demand would be so astronomical (pun intended), and there reportedly has been a few production problems – but nothing that couldn't be corrected. However, patience is not the virtue of an online buyer who is salivating and chomping at the bit for MONTHS to have one. Certainly, WickedLASERS never anticipated a featured spot with one of their (now former) US Distributors on Eyewitness NEWS! Arctics are like tulip bulbs in Holland during the early 1600's... everybody wants one, but they are near-impossible to get, because they have been BANNED FOR U.S. Import. If you really, really, really want an Arctic, fly to China and get it, because Customs is seizing all of Wicked's packages – no matter WHAT is in them. They are on the import BAN list here, and here, and here. Anyway, we have produced a much better product – it isn't a light-saber wannabe; it's a serious, weapon-mountable, PRACTICAL alternative. We call it The Cobalt Series. Unlike Wicked, we won't leave you out in the cold.

Q. While I was inquiring about your LASERS, I was waiting for an order that I had placed {with a vendor in China} for what is supposed to be a 300mW Green Laser for $89.00. Anyway, that laser finally arrived, and I am a bit concerned. First of all, I cannot see the beam in the light of my office.

A. It takes smoke and / or humidity to make the beam visible, although a 300mw LASER beam should be visible indoors... but you should NOT be using it (if it really is 300mw) in your office.

Q. When I turn the lights off, I can see the beam; however, the beam itself is kind of thin.

Q. I am having a hard time lighting matches. I lit one but then could not light any others unless I color the tip black with a Sharpie.
A. If the LASER IS 300mw you should have no problem… you have to find the focal point. Coloring the matches black is a good idea because it keeps the light from reflecting back at you, and helps convert the light to heat which is required to light the matches. Red and Green LASERS always have INFRARED components, and if you light stuff on fire VERY easily – especially if the LASER is a low power unit, it is a sign that there is no IR filter in it.

Q. I am concerned that this laser is not a 300mW as indicated.

A. Your concern is well-founded – see False Power Claims

Q. It seems more like a 50mW. Do you know of a way that I can confirm the wattage? I kind -f want to do this before I return it. I am going to return it though because it does not compare to some of the 300mw units that I have seen on YouTube.... Any input you can give me would be much appreciated.

Q. How can I tell if my LASER is putting out the power claimed by the manufacturer if I don't have a LASER Power Meter?

A. If you have a Digital Multimeter (DMM) you can get an approximation or at least an indication of the power INPUT (P) – using Ohm's Law (P=VxI) – which should tell you if the manufacturer (or seller) is lying to you about the OUTPUT. Simply remove the end cap from the LASER and set your DMM on the DC-AMPs function (2A setting should suffice). Point the LASER in a safe direction and turn on the LASER. Measure from the battery to the Host (case). Note the current draw (I) on the meter. Multiply the number on the meter (Current or I) by the voltage (V) of the battery. This will give you (P) WATTS of power. Multiply that number (P) by 1,000. For example, if you measure 0.030 Amps on the DMM and your battery is 3 volts, your (P) WATTS consumed is (0.030 x 3) = 0.09 WATTS. Multiply (P) 0.9 by 1,000, you get 90 milliwatts. If your LASER manufacturer says it's a 200mw LASER, that claim is bogus because you cannot have more power being radiated than is consumed by the driver according to the second law of thermodynamics (also see false power claims). Since most LASER diodes are nowhere NEAR 100% efficient (typically 35% best case), in the case cited above (assuming a Green 532nm) (see DPSS LASER efficiency), the LASER is probably a 40 or 50mw unit AT BEST. Awesome LASERS gives you a CERTIFICATION of output power for YOUR PARTICULAR UNIT – for LASER Pills manufactured by US. Of course, actual results may vary within normal manufacturing tolerances, but OUR LASERS will not deviate more than ± 10% (worst case) from what we claim.

A. Yes. The goggle frames are made for dogs as "sunglasses", but I used a Dremel™ Tool with a sanding bit to fit them with lenses from Wicked Laser's 445nm safety shades. The dogs are in the shop here, and shop rules apply to Man's Best Friend as well. Protection is better than a blind dog and a hell of a vet's bill for "nothing that can be done". Rocky is a certified guide dog, and a LASER eye injury for him would literally be "the blind leading the blind".

Q. I have a Spyder III Arctic G1 model that I purchased months ago. I need some way to turn it on and off with a microcontroller. The button on the back is too hard to press with a small solenoid. Got any ideas?

A. Sure! Another customer of ours wanted to do the same thing to remotely trigger two Spyder G1s for a police tactical robot. In fact, we have had several calls along those lines – wanting to have the LASER somewhere, and have the "on / off " switch somewhere else. I believe the article and short YouTube video I did recently will help you. If you don't already have a Spyder Arctic to use with this modification - you're not likely to get one due to the import ban. A Cobalt 1000 or a Cobalt 2000 is easier to modify for remote triggering because you can get a pressure switch that replaces the Tail Cap button -it's a 'no-brainer'. With the Arctic - especially the G2 model, it is IMPOSSIBLE.

A. I feel your pain. In all likelihood, you can't. Consider a Cobalt 1000 or a Cobalt 2000 by Awesome Lasers. If you ordered an Arctic from Wicked and you're suckin' wind, we have a deal for you.

Q. I have some questions that depend on other questions being answered. Who can I call?

A. You can call us on MagicJack (a VOIP service) at (718) 673-3075 and we will answer any questions you have (We answer the phone!) If you have a MagicJack, even if you are overseas, the call will be free. We also have a Skype connection: Skype ID is AwesomeLASERS, but we don't monitor that line unless you email us and arrange a time to call.

WE DO NOT ANSWER QUESTIONS OF A TECHNICAL NATURE, OR PROVIDE INFORMATION THAT WOULD COMPROMISE OUR PROPRIETARY PRODUCTS OR TRADE SECRETS.

Q. I was thinking about purchasing a LASER kit. How hard or easy is it to put one of these kit LASERS together? Where do I get a LASER kit?

A. If you don't have ten thumbs, have an average IQ, can read, and have a few basic tools, and can solder extremely small connections reasonably well, you can assemble your own LASER.

The difficulty of building a LASER from a kit will vary with the skill level of the builder. If you don't know a screwdriver from a center-punch, chances are you won't have much luck.

There are dozens of sellers offering LASER kits – and most all of them are just a bit too difficult for the average person primarily because the LASER diode is both electrically and mechanically delicate to handle. Some sellers offer only vague instructions; others have instructions written in "Chinklish" (Chinese-English).

Most kits require that you press fit the diode into a special "heat sink", and most require special tools. 90% of the damage done by kit builders is damage to the diode – either mechanical damage when pressing it into the heat sink, or ESD {ElectroStatic Discharge} damage by just handling the diode without following ESD procedures. For example, if you are holding one of these diodes in your left hand and you pick up a Styrofoam coffee cup with your right hand, you just generated enough static electricity to FRY the diode.

Q. I have a new Spyder III Arctic that has an elongated dot. Is this normal, or is there something wrong with the LASER?
A. No, nothing is wrong with the LASER. The elongated dot pattern (a rectangle) is due to the nature of the diode itself.

Q. I have an MXDL™ Conversion kit, and I want to disable the automatic "duty cycle" that flashes the LASER after it has been turned on for a few seconds. Is there an adjustment I can make to keep the beam on continuously? I don't care about battery life; I have plenty of rechargeable AAAs on hand.

A. All you have to do is use a battery with a higher current capacity. The "blinking" or duty cycle mode is a function of the Driver Board, which senses the voltage output of the battery, and switches off the LASER momentarily (and then back on) to allow the voltage to recover (this will also happen if the LASER diode or Driver Board overheats). This voltage drop is due to 600+ mA being drawn from the AAA battery pack if you assembled the kit according to instructions, or ordered the CRITSTEP™ option without the battery conversion. To gain more current capacity, you can simply replace the AAA battery pack with a Superfire #18650 2,600mAh protected battery. The process is simple and takes only a minute (if you have the battery) See: MXDL™ Battery Conversion Sorry all your plentiful AAAs will be collecting dust.

Q. Hi. Nice Web site. Are any of the LASERS that you sell capable of burning through wood ? Wood 2" – 6" thick ? Also this may sound funny but what about cutting through tree branches ? I have tall tree's on my property and pruning them is difficult & expensive.

A. No, we don't have any LUMBERJACK LASERS YET…. Maybe we will have a 3-Watt (3,000milliwatt) unit by the end of the year if we can get the driver board off the DRAWING board.

Q. What does it mean when specifications for a battery says "protected"? What is it protecting?
A. The "protected" batteries have an internal circuit (mounted on the end of the battery) that senses if there is trouble – such as a sudden increase in the current demand (a sharp down-spike in the external circuit's resistance). In flashlights and LASERS, there are normally no sudden "spikes" in current demand once the initial "turn-on" surge passes. For example, if a "protected" battery is used in a FLASHLIGHT whose LED Diode suddenly shorts out or presents ZERO-Ohms of resistance at battery, the protection circuit "trips" like a circuit breaker, and stops the flow of current, which if allowed to continue, would possibly cause the battery to leak or explode. In DIY LASERS, the Driver Board sits between the LASER Diode and the battery, and a Diode short would trip the protection circuit in (a quality) the Driver. However, if the Driver Board itself shorts out at the INPUT side, it would invoke the battery's "protection" circuit, and the current would stop.

There are several different types of these batteries, and you must choose the right one – primarily for reasons of "will it FIT inside my flashlight / host?". The 18650's which are rated at 2,600mAh are usually 1/16" longer than a standard 18650 battery. Manufacturers know this, and some batteries compensate for it by NOT having a (+) end post; i.e. the (+) end of the battery is flat. These should replace standard 18650 batteries without any trouble – except if your flashlight / host needs that little (+) "tit" to make contact. In this case, get the 2,400mAh "protected" battery, which is the same size as a standard 18650.

Q. What is the difference between the diode used in the Spyder Arctic and the diode used in the Cobalt Series?

A. Without going into too much technical detail, our proprietary diode is capable of CW output of 2,000mw with our proprietary Linear Buck / Boost driver. With our proprietary driver board, the diode is capable of <2,000mw true output with adequate heat-sinking. Our diode is also capable of <3,000mw in pulse mode with a 50% duty cycle.

A. Who knows? (and for that matter) Who cares? Given the US Government's track record on banning things that people want, a ban on handheld LASERS would be about as effective as a cigarette ban (see "PACT Act"). The FDA has already banned import of all LASERS over 5 milliwatts (see Wicked Laser Ban Letter). If idiots would stop pointing LASERS at airplanes, and obey basic safety rules, there wouldn't be an issue for the politicians to break wind about – and that's all it is – a big bout of flagrant campaign flatulence. However, pointing a LASER at an aircraft IS A SERIOUS CRIME, and WHEN {not IF} you're caught, you're going to do some serious prison time. If you're planning to skypoint airplanes, I suggest that while you're in the shower, you practice picking up a wet bar of soap with your toes; you'll need the skill where you're going.

A. The same thing that happened when the government passed prohibition laws, outlawed marihuana, and passed the "PACT Act"; you'll have more LASERS than you know what to do with. People will build LASERS from component parts like bootleggers made whisky from potato skins and corn cobs during prohibition. They will have no safety features, no infrared filters, or aperture shutters, et. al., and there will be utter insanity. I am a big fan of the adage which states "Anarchy is better than no government at all". The Internet (especially YouTube) is full of plans and schematics showing you how to build LASERS (it's really NOT rocket science). People who want 1,000mw blue LASERS will go out and buy the component parts and build a dozen LASERS with no safety features. To recoup their cost and make a little profit, they'll sell their home-brew LASER 'toys' to their friends, who will promptly go outside to 'play' with their expensive, hi-tech gadgets. Of course, one of the first things the idiots who won't obey the basic safety rules will do is target airplanes with the blue LASERS, which at distance, make the green ones pale in comparison in regards to the damage they can cause.

Of course, it is much more expensive, and much more difficult to "home-brew" a hand-held LASER from scratch than it is to just go out and BUY one from a reputable seller. With an outright BAN, and the public's want or need to have one, the "black market" will rise to meet the demand; reputable, responsible distributors will go out of business (or move their Web sites and business overseas where the FDA has no jurisdiction), there will be no modicum of control whatsoever, and there will be many, many personal injuries and countless tragedies that could have easily have been avoided. "Big Brother" will eventually be his own un-doing, but not before countless thousands of innocent civilians are maimed or killed in the process.

A. I don't have a clue what they would call it, but I know what I would call it:

I left out the second "L" for "Ludicrous" or Laughable". Now don't you bloggers steal my acronym. Mine is copyrighted. Get your own.... or at least provide a link to where you saw it first.

Q. What can I do if I see someone intentionally pointing a LASER at an airplane?

A. That depends. If you're bigger than he is, (and it looks like a decent LASER), then just take it from him (hope its a nice one) – {Whatever you do, DON'T commit an assault. However, if you see a crime in progress, you are well within your authority to use reasonable physical force to effect a Citizen's arrest – if that's the road you wish to travel} what is he going to do; call the cops? {"Errr.... yeah, officer, I was pointing my LASER at this 747.... when...."}. Facing up to 12 years in a Federal hoosegow, I don't think so. If he's bigger than you, then enlist the assistance of friends. If he's a minor, get his daddy on the phone, rat him out and KEEP the LASER. If it says "Staples" or "Brookstone" on it, then just smash it underfoot or throw it into the sewer. The lesson you'll teach him is worth the price of the LASER, and it'll be no great loss on your part. As an Enthusiast, the LAST thing I would want to do is get the cops involved and create publicity for these dummies. In all probability, if you call the cops and they arrest him, the story will be on the evening news – and the more "bad press" this hobby gets, the more likely it is that Big Brother will try to ban ALL handheld LASERS outright. {That would mean I'd have to carry mine concealed under my shirt and invoke 2^nd Amendment protections if they stop me} You'll pry my Cobalt 2000 out of my cold, dead fingers [ ;-) ]. At the end of it all, after a plea agreement, he will probably spend a few years in prison and learn to become a real criminal.

Q. Are LASER Light Shows such as in Dance Clubs, exposing me to dangerous radiation?

A. No. LASER light is not Depleted Uranium. By "LASER RADIATION" we mean the emission of high intensity, monochromatic (single color) light. While exposure to LASER beams will not make you radioactive, it is possible for the (especially the) direct or reflected beam of a high-power LASER show conducted indoors and in close quarters, to damage your eyesight. Many DJs are buying these 1 and 2 Watt (1,000 to 2,000mw) LASER Light Show Machines on eBay; even though eBay banned Hand-Held LASERS over 5mw (go figure). Most of these DJs are NOT qualified to run these machines and don't have a clue about LASER safety. You are taking a terrible risk of eye damage if such a machine is not operated properly, or you catch a direct beam or a reflection in your eyes. You have a right to be safe. If you are in a club or dance hall and they start shooting LASERS all over the place – especially onto people – go to the manager and ask if the operator is a Certified LASER Operator, and ask to see PROOF. If credentials are not forthcoming, or you see basic safety rules being violated, you should report the DJ and the club to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Their web site is www.FDA.gov Phone Number is 1-888-463-6332. Use your cell phone camera to take photos and videos for evidence.

A. Good question. The simple answer is "technology". The Direct Blue LASER diode generates a 445nm coherent light directly – it does not need any precision optics to convert the light to another wavelength. On the other hand, the 532nm Green LASERS require a "stack" of precision-aligned, delicate optics that convert Infra-Red light into the visible wavelength (green). These optics in a quality LASER consist of a "stack" of crystals that must be aligned precisely in order for the LASER to work. These additional optical components more than triple the cost of producing a comparably powered LASER.

A. Another good question. The simple answer is that the technology has not been developed because there has not been a commercial application that would justify the R&D cost to develop such a diode. As of August 2010, there were rumors that a "direct green" LASER diode was being developed, but this is unsubstantiated.

A. In responsible hands, they are no more "dangerous" than very bright flashlights. Staring into the beam of either a very bright LASER or a 1,000 Watt Klieg lamp will most likely cause temporary "spot blindness" but to permanently damage your retina would probably be unlikely at any appreciable distance because a light this bright will cause an involuntary aversion reaction. The exceptions to the "aversion reaction" rule are LASERS in Class IIIb and above – especially the Class IV Cobalt 2000 and Spyder III Arctic. These high-power LASERS can cause INSTANT eye damage before your body has time to react; even before you can blink your eyes, your retinas can be punched full of tiny holes. This is the reason that shining a LASER at an aircraft or moving vehicle is illegal. Looking into a LASER beam of a 50mw or higher power LASER at close range is definitely NOT recommended.

Q. I have seen 1,000 to 5,000mw Green LASERS available from another seller on the Internet. Can this be TRUE?

{ see http://www.dhgate.com/2000mw-green-laser-pointer-adjustable-star/p-ff808081287b654c0128922c039b2ce3.html and http://www.dhgate.com/p_ff808081287b654c0128922e4a1132ab.html }

(I have de-activated the above URL links; you must cut & paste them into your browser – I don't want to link to this Web site from here).

A. I wish it were! I'd be selling them like there's no tomorrow! {see actual screen shots of some of these scams} If you scroll down the listings, under "Description", you will see the words: "Safety grade: Class IIIB". Anything over 500mw is Class IV (see our chart). In these listings, the seller also has the following: "Note: Please do not Staring the green light more than 3s, it is harmful to your eyes!". Obviously, this is a case of an "extra zero"; i.e.: 1,000mw should be 100mw; 2,000mw should be 200mw; 3,000mw should be 300mw. At the claimed power levels, "staring {at} the green light" wouldn't be necessary; a 3,000mw LASER at close range would punch a tiny hole through the back of your head, and eye damage would be the least of your problems. You could probably do some light welding with a 3,000mw LASER, however, no diodes yet exist that would make 1,000 or 2,000 or 3,000milliwatt green Hand-Held LASERS possible... and 5,000 milliwatts? Please!

Obviously, this seller (and at least a dozen others on DHGate.com) either have no knowledge of LASERS, has mistyped their descriptions, or are intentionally trying to scam their customers. I don't know if the "extra zero" issue is intentional deception, or just plain ignorance on the part of all the sellers on the site, but effect is the same. One seller "wholesalers1sophia", has a 50% negative feedback on DHgate. Caveat Emptor. If you're reading this, then you know. If it looks too good to be true, then it probably is a misprint or a deception.

You should also be aware of wording such as "ultra-powerful", and "most powerful" in ad copy describing a 5, 10, or even 50 milliwatt LASER. If you see such wording in an ad, it is deception pure and simple. Click off the site and do your LASER shopping elsewhere (hopefully here). BTW: a 5 or 10mw LASER – no matter what color it is – is useless for anything but pointing at pie charts in a dimly-lit room or driving your cat up the wall. Chances are for a bit more money, you'll get something you'll be really happy with in the long-term.

Q. I saw a LASER that looks the same as yours from a seller in China at a very low price. Is this the same LASER as yours? {visitor sent me URL}
A. No. Most all LASER manufacturers do NOT manufacture their own enclosures; they manufacture the "guts" and put them in enclosures (pens, flashlight-style, etc.) that are manufactured as a standard item available from a manufacturer in China. In this case, what you see is not necessarily what you get. Although the LASER may LOOK the same on the outside, the "guts" – the parts that really matter – can be quite different from one supplier to the next. Other companies package cheap crap Hand-Held LASERS in decent enclosures, and put them in a really nice box – like heirloom jewelry or something. People do this to command premium prices for inferior quality or dismally under-powered products, and once they've sold a few hundred units and made their "killing" so-to-speak, they disappear off the Internet like they were never there. We are here for the long-haul. Our products are top-quality, and it will become evident once you hold them in your hand. If you have one of our competitor's LASERS, or know someone who does, put the identical units side-by-side and compare them. You will immediately notice the difference between a cheap "knock-off" in an identical case, and a professional-grade LASER. A few years ago I bought a LASER on eBay which seemed to be a very high quality unit – but the enclosure is what made it seem that way. Opening up the case revealed that it was literally held together with white bathtub caulk. The seller went out of business and closed his PayPal™ account before I could return it.

We have all at one point or another, purchased "bootleg" DVDs or other "copycat" products such as women's "Gucci" handbags on the street. I think you would agree that there is nothing like "the real thing". Sure, you'll save some money initially, but when the thing goes "belly-up" in a few months and the seller disappears from the face of the Earth, what recourse will you have then? There are also numerous sellers making ridiculously ludicrous output power claims for cheap crap LASERS, and people are buying them - and the funny thing is that they're getting great buyer feedback (unless, of course, that's bogus as well)..

Q. What is the main difference between quality LASERS and the cheap, look-alike knock-offs?

A. Quality LASERS will have optical quality GLASS lenses and collimators and Infrared filters (in the case of red and green LASERS) incorporated into their design, while the cheap knock-offs (which are often packaged in the identical enclosures) will use PLASTIC lenses and optics and omit the Infrared filter. The cheap knock-offs will appear identical to the good quality LASERS, but their plastic optics tend to deteriorate over time, drastically affecting the performance of the unit. The cheap knock-offs will also light matches and pop balloons more readily than their quality counterparts because the Infrared filter is omitted. The omission of an IR filter makes the LASER dangerous to operate, since Infrared is not visible. Lack of an IR filter also makes the LASER illegal to sell in the United States. [Direct Blue LASERS such as the Cobalt 2000 do not generate ANY infrared radiation at all] Remember that you are buying a LASER for its visible beam properties. Cheap LASERS rated for an output of 200 mw may radiate a good portion of that power as Infrared, which is USELESS unless you want to use your LASER exclusively for burning matches and lighting cigarettes. While quality units will also do this, it is because the LIGHT energy is converted to HEAT when it impacts an object. The darker the color of the object, the more of the light energy will be absorbed and converted to heat. Cheap crap LASERS with no IR filters will pop balloons almost instantly because the (Infrared) heat (not the light) is being radiated from the LASER, and is instantly absorbed by the target object. In addition, if you're using goggles that protect you from 532nm, they will not stop infrared radiation from passing through and causing eye damage. Note that if you're burning something with a BLUE LASER (408 - 445nm), it is the LIGHT converted to heat by the target that is doing the burning, since there is no Infrared radiation here.

A. Even the best acrylic plastic deteriorates (gets yellow) with age. Exposing plastic lenses to the high intensity of a LASER beam accelerates the normal deterioration. In addition, GLASS is a much better heat conductor than PLASTIC, and LASER diodes like to run cool. PLASTIC also tends to distort (or melt) when heated, and stay distorted after cooling off. Although PLASTIC is much more tolerant of abuse, it also can pit internally if enough power is passed through it. We have all seen those plastic (or even glass) sculptures sold on the streets of large cities – you can even get your own photos etched into glass. Well, the "artwork" inside those blocks of plastic or glass is done by computer-controlled LASERS. The beam actually boils the material, forming microscopic bubbles that when repeated millions of times, create the internal "sculpture". The same thing happens (only at a much slower rate) when a high-power LASER beam passes through a PLASTIC lens.

Q. What does the specification "TEM₀₀" mean?
A. The "TEM" part stands for "Transverse Electro Magnetic". It means that there is no electric or magnetic fields generated in the direction the beam is traveling. The numerical part of the designation (which can be 00, 10, 20, 30, 01, 11, 21, 31, 02, 12, 22, 33 et. al.) refers to the beam symmetry; 00 being symmetrical, and others being rectangular with lobes of the radiation pattern being defined by TEMmn – where m is horizontal and n is the vertical component of the energy (light) emission pattern. If you're a math whiz, you should comprehend this article on Wikipedia. If you click the links on the page, you'll get even more equations. Have fun! It gives me a headache!

A. Because they're ripping people off. We will put Our LASERS up against theirs any day! Awesome LASERS is dedicated to bringing you the best value for your money without sacrificing quality. You should also learn how to spot vendors who make false power claims for their LASER products.

A. A LASER Class or Hazard chart classifies different LASERS according to power output and intended use, primarily to designate the level of hazard by exposure to the LASER output. You can see a LASER Hazard chart here. You should also review basic safety rules

A. You don't – or at least, you shouldn't have to. [I assume you mean the collimator lens]. If you MUST do this, you have to be extremely careful. The internal optics on ALL hand-held LASERS use microscopically thin semi-reflective coatings that can be permanently damaged by "lens cleaners" of any type. DO NOT wipe the lens on your LASER with Windex – or even blow into the aperture, because you'll likely ruin the lens coating and void any warranty in force. If you will be using your LASER in inclement weather, make sure you protect the aperture by sealing it with a transparent piece of plastic – or you can even use a bit of clear food wrap. For a permanent "fix" you can use the clear plastic disc from a miniature flashlight taped to the end of the LASER. Do NOT use any aromatic glue – especially "super glue", as cyanoacrylate gives off fumes that will ruin the optics permanently.

A. Two characteristics of LASER light contribute to the hazard of handheld LASERS:

Q. Do high-power "astronomy" LASERS such as these pose a danger to eyesight?
A. Yes, definitely. At close range, even a sweeping high-power LASER crossing your retina can cause irreparable eye damage. The risk of damage is less, but still significant when the beam is reflected. The risk becomes less pronounced with distance from the aperture because of the beam divergence. Some of the high-power units available employ safety keys which must be inserted into the back-end of the LASER and switched 'ON" in order to operate the unit. The safety key can be removed in either the "ON" or "OFF" position. Turning the key "OFF" and removing it keeps children from using these units, and ensures that the operator points the LASER away from himself when the key is inserted.

A. Primarily, they are used for "sky-pointing" – or for aiming telescopes without using the rangefinder scope. Other uses include holography, firearms target training, construction (leveling and spotting), and by law enforcement for forensics use in determining the path and ricochet patterns of bullets. In the woods, or on a small boat at sea, you can carry one of these to signal for help in case you get lost or injured. A high-power LASER can be used to illuminate a space where a flashlight could never reach – such as into a cave or down a deep well. A high-power LASER shone into a copper pipe would reflect even around bends in the pipe to test for obstructions. Two or more LASERS aimed at the same spot from different locations using a compass or sextant can be used to triangulate the position of a target (such as a campfire) on a map. Most of these units can be mounted on rifles with a modified Weaver mount. A 12-guage shotgun would look very intimidating with a 200 mw LASER mounted on it. High-power INFRARED LASERS are used by the military to "paint" targets in order to guide precision air strikes to targets on the ground. Also see: LASER info.

A. For maximum performance, (non-rechargeable) LITHIUM batteries will produce the most output and last the longest. However, these are quite expensive. Using standard Carbon batteries is NOT recommended. You can also use NiCd or Li-ion rechargeable batteries which are 1.2 Volts (in the AAA size), but this will reduce the power output by approximately 20 percent. Li-ion rechargeable batteries are best suited for general use, since the power output remains stable for about 80% to 90% of the usable charge, and Li-ion batteries do not suffer from the "memory effect" that NiCd batteries exhibit. Rechargeable batteries save BIG money when you add them all up. Save even MORE money on all your online purchases (including eBay and hundreds of other stores) by signing up here: Save Money on Your Online Purchases

Q. My LASER came with a rechargeable Li-ion battery and charger. Should I use Lithium batteries instead?

A. No. If your LASER came with a rechargeable battery, it was designed to use that type of battery. You can use a Lithium battery of the same type and voltage if you want to, but it will not affect how your unit performs. If you are taking the LASER into a harsh environment – especially in extremely cold weather, you should carry a spare Lithium battery, especially if it is dangerous terrain, or if you anticipate using the unit for rescue signaling.

A. At ground level with no obstructions (such as buildings or trees) these LASERS can be clearly seen 21 miles away (the horizon at sea level is 22 miles). If you are on a ship or sailboat, you can point one of these LASERS at a ship on the horizon, and they will be able to see it very clearly. Light travels in a straight line; it won't bend around the curvature of the Earth, and that is why claims of "100-mile visibility" are total B.S. (see below).

Q. One of your competitor's Web sites states that their LASERS can be seen for 100 miles. Are their LASERS more powerful or better than yours?

A. This claim is pure horse-hockey. There is no place on the surface of planet Earth where one could actually test this ridiculous claim.... unless the participants of this test were standing on a mountain somewhere, or in ORBIT, and shining LASER beams between Space Shuttles. I defy them to name any place on the surface of the Earth where line-of-sight visibility is "100 miles". However, on a clear night, a 200 or 300mw LASER aimed from Earth would be clearly visible to an astronaut standing on the moon. A 50mw LASER on Earth is visible to a satellite in geo-stationary orbit 22 miles up. It would also be visible to visiting aliens, and could possibly be construed as an invitation for a "close encounter of the fourth kind". If you get abducted, you can't say you weren't warned. (ROTFL).

A. The Star Cap is a screw-on accessory that mounts on the LASER aperture of a cheap pen or flashlight style LASER. Essentially, it is a diffraction grating used to create kaleidoscope effects. When attached to the LASER, the Star Cap can be rotated (manually) to create a mesmerizing pattern of dots. Great for those boring movie theatre intermissions. Not all LASER housings are equipped to attach a Star Cap.

A. The Cobalt Series LASERS can be held "on" continuously, although why you would want to is beyond me. The LASER will become warm to the touch, which is normal. There is ample heat-sinking of the diodes in all of our LASERS to keep the diode cool until the batteries die.

A. MTBF (Mean Time Between Failure) of a typical Direct Blue LASER diode is approximately 8,000 to 10,000 hours. At this rate, it amounts to between 333 to 416 (24-hour) days of continuous "on"-time. Unless you have the thing surgically implanted in your skull like the Borg on Star Trek, these Hand-Held LASERS will last a lifetime with normal use, and can probably be left to your children in your will.

A. 100 milliwatts. ;-) Seriously – A 300mw LASER will be approximately 1/3 again as bright as a 200mw unit. LASER "radiation" is LIGHT – and (normal) light, like radio waves, follows the inverse-square law. For example, if a 4-watt radio transmitter such as a Citizen's Band walkie-talkie has a range of 20 miles, if you wanted to DOUBLE the range, you would have to square the power: i.e.: (4²) = 16 Watts. However, highly monochromatic (single-color) LASER light does NOT follow the inverse-square law. If you had a LASER with a ZERO-degree beam divergence – in other words, the beam diameter remained the same no matter what the distance from the aperture, the power would be the same at 100 miles from the source as it is 2 feet from the source (ignoring atmospheric scattering and absorption). A zero degree beam divergence is impossible, and so the amount of power imparted to the target is mainly a factor of A) How much power there is to start with, and B) How big the "dot" gets as a function of distance from the LASER aperture. As the diameter of the dot increases, the power of the LASER is distributed over the area of the dot, and is a function of pi.

Q. There are 500 milliwatt units available. Who needs such a powerful LASER?

A. If you need the power – you have the answer to that question. If you are going to buy a performance LASER, then it is best to buy the highest power unit you can afford – to avoid having to buy a more powerful one in the future and have the old one that you spent good money on, sit in the drawer collecting dust.

This photo of a 300mw Green LASER shows the ideal beam divergence configuration for a sky-pointing LASER. Notice that the diameter of the beam does not appear to change as it moves away from the user. In actuality, the beam is spreading out ever so slightly – just enough to keep it visible from the user's perspective, until the eye can no longer see it. The beam seems a bit wider at the source in the photo because its brightness is overwhelming the CCD in the digital camera.

A. Yes. Due to the sensitivity curve of the human eye, a wavelength of 635 nm appears at least 4 times brighter than an equivalent power level at 670 nm. Thus, shorter wavelength LASERS will be best where maximum visibility is important. A Green (532nm) LASER is the most visible as a function of power vs. wavelength. The lower the (nanoMeter) number (nm) the shorter the wavelength. For those who want the technicalities, here they are:

Q. The LASER in your sky photo (above) seems to end abruptly in the sky. Why is that?

A. The beam doesn't end; it's just that your eye cannot resolve the narrow beam from that distance. At the point where the diameter of the beam becomes too small to see with the naked eye, it SEEMS to abruptly end. This is partly due to a phenomenon called "scotopic vision". Imagine a Dayglo™ thread stretched from the Earth to the moon. Even though this theoretical thread would actually reach the moon's surface, at what point would the thread extending into the sky NOT be visible to your naked eye? Same with the LASER beam. This "abrupt end" phenomenon is an illusion – it is caused by the limited resolution of the human eye. Another factor is atmospheric dust and humidity. As the beam travels further up into the atmosphere, reduced humidity and airborne particulates reduces the amount of reflection, and the beam will fade abruptly. If you have a LASER that "fades" or gets dimmer as it travels short distances, it is because the beam divergence angle is too high – A high beam divergence angle is the mark of a cheap piece of junk – at least as far as sky-pointing purposes are concerned.

Q. If I point at a cloud, how can I tell the beam is actually reaching the cloud?

A. It depends on how far away (or up) the cloud is. However, I can tell you for a fact that if you can see the cloud and you point a LASER at it, an observer in the cloud will be able to see it. If the cloud is dense (fluffy) and there is a low "ceiling', a beam ending in a spot (or dot) is where the beam is impacting the cloud. If there is a high ceiling, or the cloud is dispersed (wispy), the beam is still reaching it, only you can't see it with your naked eye. You might try using a pair of binoculars or a small telescope to see the "dot" on clouds that are too far away for your eye to see the small "dot" impacting on them.

A. (Also see: Beam Diameter and Divergence) LASER light beams are subject to divergence, which is measured in milliradians (mrad) or degrees. For many applications, a lower-divergence beam is preferable. Neglecting divergence due to poor beam quality, the divergence of a LASER beam is proportional to its wavelength and inversely proportional to the diameter of the beam at its narrowest point. For example, an ultraviolet LASER that emits at a wavelength of 308 nm will have a lower divergence than an infrared LASER at 808 nm, if both have the same minimum beam diameter. The divergence of good-quality LASER beams is modeled using the mathematics of Gaussian beams. LASERS used for astronomy purposes ("sky-pointing") are designed so that the beam is visible to the naked eye located at the source of the beam for approximately 1 mile. After the beam has traveled a mile into the sky, to the user, it seems to end abruptly. This is the point where the human eye's resolution can no longer resolve the beam; in effect, it "disappears". However, an observer in an airplane flying at 5,000 feet would see the beam for (another) mile into the sky from his position.

If the beam divergence was too wide, the beam would get fatter (and the "dot" bigger) very fast, and the LASER would be useless for sky-pointing. If the divergence angle were too narrow, the beam would cease to be visible to the user at a very short distance, again making it useless for sky-pointing. The mark of a great sky-pointing LASER is one whose beam diameter seems to remain constant to the observer as it travels away from the LASER. See our "Beamwalking" video.

Q. How big will the spot on a LASER be at one mile?
A. This depends on the divergence angle. A LASER with a 1.5mRad divergence angle will have a dot that spreads 1.5mm per meter. First you must convert miles to meters (1 mile = 1609.344 Meters). Take the divergence angle specification for your LASER and plug it into the calculation: SD = (DA x TD)

Q. I am in need of a laser I can see during the day at even brightest of daylight. It needs to be a pretty good beam I can see at 1/2 mile with the naked eye. Could be as big as a quarter at that distance if possible. I need to mount this on my rifle to use in killing varmints. Ranchers are losing calves and lambs from these varmints and really need help. I am turning to you folks because I feel you folks are passionate about what you are doing and would really be willing to help me. It needs to be water proof as sometimes I will be sitting out in the rain for hours to find these killers.
A. You are right in that we are passionate about what we do. This is a great hobby turned into a great little business. A LASER BEAM you can see during daylight is pretty tough because the sunlight will glare it out. However, a LASER whose DOT you can see on a target 100 yards away is not too hard to do – but the DOT at a distance of 1/2 mile with a GREAT LASER with a not-so-great) 1.5mRad divergence would be 3.96 feet in diameter. At one mile it would be 7.92 feet in diameter – bigger than the target, and too big to be bright enough to see during daylight. See the formula for calculating this on our FAQs page under beam divergence {above}. However, at NIGHT, the spot with a 500mw GREEN LASER would illuminate the target enough to see it with a scope.Q & A / FAQs on handheld LASERS

I can tell you for a fact that a portable LASER that would put a spot as big as a quarter at one mile simply doesn't exist, NOT EVEN IN THE MILITARY – and if anyone tells you it does, well, they're "blowin' smoke. (lol)

If you're looking for a LASER on eBay, don't waste your money they're TOYS

HOWEVER.... I can tell you that a powerful LASER such as our Cobalt 2000 LASER Kit is NOT suitable for what you want to do, either. You want to use a GREEN LASER because human and most animal's eyes have peak sensitivity at this wavelength.... in fact, your eyes are FIVE TIMES more sensitive to Green than they are to any other color see: the Color Spectrum graph. However, high-power GREEN LASERS (already built) are presently BANNED from being imported into the US. I'm sorry that I couldn't be of more assistance.

Q. On some nights the beam from my 30mw Green LASER is clearly visible, and on other nights it seems much dimmer. I'm using fresh batteries each time. Is something wrong with the LASER?

A. Probably not. The reason you can see the beam AT ALL at this power level is because of atmospheric humidity and dust particles. Part of the beam gets reflected off of microscopic water droplets and dust, (Rayleigh scattering) and you see this as a thin beam. When there is very little humidity and very little dust such as on a crisp winter night, the beam will not seem as bright. And by the way... If you took your Hand-Held LASER onto the Space Station, went EVA and aimed it out into space, you (as an observer) would not see the beam at all. If you want good beam visibility you should get a 200mw Green a 200mw Green Focusable, or a 500mw Green LASER.

A. Yes, the Cobalt Series LASERS are focus-adjustable. The LASER can be de-focused which makes it ideal for use as a "long-range" flashlight. This enables you to point the LASER at a parked car, for example, and "light-up" the inside of the car so that you can see who is inside from a distance; you can't do this with the best focusable flashlights because the beam spreads out too far, illuminates the outside of the vehicle and blinds you with reflected glare. In its "out of focus" mode, the LASER is also less dangerous to eyesight if accidentally viewed directly.

Q. How efficient are Green, Blue, and Yellow DPSS LASERS and why does efficiency matter?

A. Green DPSS LASERS are usually around 20% efficient, although some LASERS have been reported to be 35% efficient. In other words, a green DPSS LASER using a 2.5 W pump diode would be expected to output around 500 mw of 532 nm light when driven to its maximum rated specification.

Blue DPSS LASERS use an extremely similar process, except that the 808 nm light is being converted to 946 nm light, which is then frequency-doubled to 473 nm. Because of the lower gain for the materials, blue DPSS LASERS are relatively weak, and are only around 3% efficient. Recent (early 2010) developments in LASER technology has made possible the direct generation of BLUE LASER radiation from a single diode. These LASERS are class IV LASERS (see chart in RED) – the same category as surgical LASERS, are extremely dangerous for use by untrained individuals, and are not meant for use as Hand-Held LASERS. These Direct-Blue LASERS are extremely efficient, and extremely powerful. They can cause INSTANT eye damage by MOMENTARY exposure – even to exposure of beam reflections. They require use of eye protection (safety goggles) at all times.

We have our own Cobalt Series LASER Kits. Before purchasing a Direct Blue LASER, we suggest you read our "Blue LASERS" page.

Yellow LASERS use an even more complicated process. A 808 nm pump is used to generate 1,064 nm and 1,342 nm light, which is summed to become 593.5 nm. Yellow LASERS are about as efficient as blue LASERS, but due to their complexity and costs, most yellow DPSS LASERS are only around 1% efficient.

Efficiency matters in Hand-Held LASERS because of the power consumption required to power a hand-held device. The higher the efficiency, the less the power drain on the batteries in order to gain the same output power. Green LASERS are most efficient among the various colors available in DPSS LASERS, and since the human eye is particularly sensitive at the Green wavelength, a Green LASER will appear significantly brighter than a Blue, Red, or Yellow LASER with the same output power. However, the power (heat) imparted to a non-reflecting (black) object will be approximately the same.

Q. When I keep my LASER on for a minute, the spot gets distorted and spreads out. Is my unit defective?

A. No, probably not. What is happening is that the batteries you are using are probably weak or defective. The LASER consumes a lot of current which causes a drop in the output voltage. When the supplied voltage drops below the minimum voltage specification, a DPSS LASER diode without a boost driver will oscillate, and what you will see is an elongated dot which slowly spreads into a herringbone line. Change / charge the batteries.

Q. When you say some 300mw DPSS LASERS were failing to fire at low temperatures, what did you mean by low temperatures? 60° F, or 30° F or -20° F? {this question was a response to an email}
NOTE: This question does NOT apply to our Cobalt Series LASERS – These LASERS are "Direct Blue"; NOT DPSS, and they are not as sensitive to temperature extremes as DPSS Blue LASERS.

A. People in Buffalo NY were taking LASERS outside where it was close to -10°F and they failed to fire. All DPSS LASERS – especially the BLUE ones – because the diodes in these LASERS are UNDER-driven (so they can fire continuously without burning up) will take a while to warm up. They didn't FAIL; they just needed time to come up to operating temperature.

The optics in these units are very precise. Contraction of the metal lens mounts and diode heat sinks misalign – or more precisely, cause the spacing between the diode and the mirror to get closer, and the diode fires, but the reflection from the mirror gets out of phase – just like a WARP CORE or a dilithium crystal, and it has to 'warm up' in order to work. The (DPSS) BLUE ones are more susceptible, because they have MULTIPLE sets of mirrors, which are 'sandwiched' together in a single 'chip'. If the chip gets cold and contracts, the layers move closer together, and create moiré patterns (which is interesting), and then they 'fail' to fire altogether. We tested this temperature sensitivity on some GREEN LASERS, and if they're cold – they will take a second or two to 'warm up' as well. In all cases, when the temperature returns to a reasonable value – to where a HUMAN BEING would be comfortable, performance returns to normal.

I am told that if a LASER instrument does NOT exhibit this sensitivity, the components are NOT adequately heat-sinked – you can't mount the optics in rubber 'shock mounts' and expect them to stay aligned. The down-side is that if you precision mount a diode and lens in a brass / aluminum housing, you can THEN shock-mount the entire assembly. When you do that, there is still metal and optics in direct contact, and if the unit is subjected to high-G forces (such as being dropped) the metal around the optics will STILL impart some force to the components, and if the force is great enough, the components will become misaligned or damaged.

Take heart, however. I've had several of these units for about a year now. All of them work flawlessly. I dropped my GREEN 300mw unit down a flight of stairs once. I was sure I'd have a door-stop on my hands, but by some miracle, it still works (I can't guarantee any of these units will survive being dropped down a flight of stairs).

Cheap, non-DPSS RED LASERS do NOT have any external optics (outside the diode). For example, you can throw a $4.00 5mw RED LASER pen out of a car going 60MPH, pick it up, put batteries in it, and it will probably still work. Once you add components OUTSIDE the LASER diode, such as an infrared filter (by US law, all LASERS over 5mw sold in the US must have infrared filters to be legally sold), collimator lens (blue LASERS do not generate any Infra-red radiation), you are dealing with DELICATE PRECISION INSTRUMENTS that are intolerant of abuse.

The metal around the better LASERS is MASSIVE. This enables you to fire them continuously until the battery dies, without harm to the diode or the surrounding optics. However, the metal has weight and has delicate parts around it. It is shock-mounted, but a drop from 6 feet onto a concrete floor may crack the reflector mirror and destroy the ability to laze, but the diode will still work – it costs more to fix it than to replace it. This is true of all precision optical instruments.

In order for the convection of heat to flow from ceramic or glass to metal, there has to be some sort of intermediary heat carrier such as 'heat sink grease' like the white 'lithium' stuff that is used between CPU chips and their heat sinks on PCs. The problem with this is that you cannot use any type of 'grease' on or near precision optics. The alternative is to make a very precise fit between the optical components and the surrounding metal. If the surfaces are OPTICALLY smooth, heat transfer will be efficient. Also, having enough metal around the 'hot' components for the heat to dissipate into, helps the components to radiate heat away.

Just be aware that the beam on a BLUE LASER will not stand out in the sky like a green LASER of identical power will. The spot will appear light blue to dark purple depending upon the color of the surface it is pointed at. If you are using it for astronomy purposes, a 200mw GREEN PEN-style LASER, a 300mw or a 500mw GREEN FLASHLIGHT-style LASER is sufficient.

A. Whatever toots your horn. You'll need a custom-made mount. Check the laws in your State to see if hunting at night with LASER sights is permitted. BTW if deer are mesmerized by car headlights, I can't imagine how Bambi would react to a LASER pointed at her!

Q. How much power would it take to punch a hole in a piece of aluminum foil?

A. A Lot – probably 10 Watts (10,000 mw) or more. A LASER's light can only punch a hole in something if the "something" doesn't reflect the light. Since a majority of the light hitting a piece of aluminum foil would be reflected and scattered, the little bit that was left would have to provide the "heat" – and aluminum is a great heat dissipater.

A. Yes... of course... but NOT with OURS (unless you buy a whole bunch of them, shoot them off simultaneously, and aim them at the same exact spot). The US Military can zap you with LASERS mounted on orbiting satellites or battleships (see "Free Electron LASER" video) – they cover it up by calling it "spontaneous human combustion" and leaking the story to The National Enquirer (rotfl).

A. Yes. Indirectly. If you point the LASER at small aircraft or a moving vehicle, it may blind or distract the pilot / driver sufficiently to cause an "accident", which will be (at the least) manslaughter on your part.

Q. OK, sans the caveats, if you can't KILL someone (directly) with a portable LASER, can you HARM someone (directly) with one?

A. The answer is "yes", most definitely. Misuse of or accidental exposure to the collimated beam or reflections of it – from a 2,000 Milliwatt blue (445nm) portable LASER can cause instant damage and possible (irreversible) blindness. Manufacturer's specifications state that there is significant eye damage risk at a range of over 200 yards. This particular LASER can also cause serious skin burns and punctures, with possible long-term effects of inducing skin melanomas (cancer). You might not kill 'em – but they'll wish you had. The good news is – the LASERS are 100% legal, and you can {still} get them here.

Q. I've seen magazine ads that advertise plans to build a LASER ray gun. Is this possible?
A. Sure. And if sparrows had banjos for suppositories, there would be music in the air. You can build a Hand-Held LASER with a LASER diode scrounged from a DVD burner and other components from Radio Shack and Home Depot. The project – if successful, will cost you TWICE what it costs to buy a good one here... If the diode isn't heat-sinked properly, it will go up in smoke after a few minutes of continuous use... and as far as "ray guns" in the sense that they can vaporize things like a Klingon disruptor – A ray gun (as in Star Trek?) NOT A CHANCE!

Q. Can a portable LASER be used as a "disruptor" weapon?
A. Yes. The de-focused beam of a 200mw green or 200mw blue LASER can be used as a defensive weapon. With the focus ring turned completely Counter-Clockwise (CCW), these LASERS at close range will render a mugger or assailant temporarily blind (the green LASER is brighter for this purpose).

A. CRITSTEP™ options are discontinued with our new, encapsulated LASER Pill design. This was a kit option that when added to a LASER Kit order, told us that you wanted US to perform critical steps of the kit-building procedure for you. For example, the kit instructions for our previous 1,500mw 445nm Blue LASER kit involved soldering jumpers across tiny SMT components, constructing a 1-Ohm Dummy Load, and measuring output current with a Digital Multimeter. If your eyesight isn't (or isn't corrected to) 20/20, or you don't have a DMM, it would be impossible for you to successfully build this kit. If you don't have the tools, obtaining decent tools to work on SMT technology would cost over $250. When you added CRITSTEP™ option to your order, we performed these delicate steps for you, and you SKIPPED those steps (marked with an orange background) in the instructions when you built your kit.

A. The difference was that in "600" Driver Board jumpers were configured for, and pot adjusted to 600mA, whereas in "1000", the Driver Board jumpers were configured for, and pot adjusted to 1,000mA. In our new pill design, the driver board is adjusted for 1,800mA.

A. We did CRITSTEP™ mods on a per-order basis, twice per week (Wednesday and Saturday). We could not do them "on-the-fly" because we had to set up the test bench, warm up the soldering station, do the mod, and "burn-in" tests, etc. This was time and cost prohibitive to do as orders came in. If we had the kits in stock (we usually do) then our posting of your order would be the business day AFTER the mods are done; i.e. Thursday and Monday, respectively.

Q. My cat chases the LASER spot – it drives her nuts... but my dog ignores it. What's up?

A. Firstly, a warning – if you use anything over a 5mw LASER to play with your pets, you run the risk of blinding them or at least damaging their eyesight. Why are you teasing your cat? Could it be that Dogs are color blind, but cats are not? Your guess is as good as mine. It could be that your cat has nothing better to do than chase light spots on the wall, and your dog has better things to do than chase phantoms so-to-speak.... then again, when was the last time your dog played with a ball of wool or got twisted sniffing catnip? Sounds like a good research project worthy of Federal grant money – hell... the Government researches cow farts and calls it "greenhouse gas" while Al Gore is getting filthy rich selling "Carbon Credits" (maybe farmers should start feeding Bean-o™ to their livestock <– Click link and on "extra credit" on the page) – And why not a Federal grant for Ophthalmology studies on two of Man's best friends? Since I suggested it, where's MY "cut"?

Answers to Frequently Asked Questions about LASERS
We have provided hyperlinks to Wikipedia and other sources for in-depth research

Green LASER hits plane landing in Spokane

Answers to Frequently Asked Questions about LASERS We have provided hyperlinks to Wikipedia and other sources for in-depth research

Green LASER hits plane landing in Spokane

Answers to Frequently Asked Questions about LASERS
We have provided hyperlinks to Wikipedia and other sources for in-depth research